Monday, September 29, 2008

Namibia: Food, Sand, and Surf


Namibia is located on the west side of africa below the northern hump and above South Africa. It is bordered by Angola in the north, Botswana and Zimbabwe in the east, and South Africa in the south. Most of the country is desert and dunes and star-gazing here is amazing. It was colonized by Germany and recently got independence in 92'. The abolishment of apartheid is still very recent to Namibia and the remnants of its racism is still apparent. We docked in big shipping harbor in the middle of the coast called Walvis Bay. Just north of Walvis is a resort town called Swakopmund which literally means "shit river" in native tongues, although I found the place to be really nice. Swakopmund or Swakop for short is the extreme sports capital of Namibia, where you can skydive, sandboard the dunes, atv, and whatnot. They even have a skate ramp and some surf, though its cold.

Heavily influenced by German and Afrikaans culture, Namibia is a peaceful country with spectacular desert and ocean landscapes. This port started with a trip to an Oyster farm. Namibia is famous worldwide for its oysters. This happened to be the same farm that Anthony Bourdain, from the travel channel's food show No Reservations, visited. Our guide for the day was the featured on the show as well. The oyster farm was cool but it makes you weary of eating oysters. We tried some fresh oysters at the end of the tour and they were delicious but salty.




The rest of the Namibia trip was spent eating delicious free range steaks, kudu, croc, zebra, onyx, and pork, As well as enjoying South African wines. Colin and I aquired some surf boards from a local surfer named Rod who grew up in Durban with Shaun Tomson. He showed us some pics of the waves that Namibia has to offer. Lets just say this, Namibia has a plethora of unexplored points and gets pounded by the same swells that hit S. Africa. This place has the potential to go off, and Rod said it does. Rod is an environmentalist and is working with the diamond companies that own mush of the coastline and make it off-limits. He is trying to open up some spots to tourists but it is hard because the diamond company runs the economy here and holds much power. He showed us a secret spot at the tip of Walvis Bay where Cory Lopez and his friends come once a year to ride 18 second barrels. Unfortunately the surf is fickle and wasn't firing while we were there. Nevertheless Colin and I surfed a mushy little wave that broke off the pier in Swakop. Colin named it Wet Dog Pier as that is what I looked like sloshing around in the foamy water paddling on Rod's 6'10. Remember the scene in Endless Summer II when they drive up from S. Africa along the Skeleton Coast to surf a foamy spot off the dunes that they call number 27 because there are 27 other spots just like it. That is Namibia. The foam is insane but it was fun to get out in the water and try to surf Africa. Colin ended up flying out to J-Bay when we got to South Africa and got the best surf of his life, but more on that later.

Colin, Michael, and I along with a bunch of other SAS kids stayed at a hostel in Swakop and ate the best food of our lives. Oh Yea did I mention that the exchange rate here is 8.1 Namibian dollars to our 1 dollar. We ate like kings and paid in Monopoly money. A liter of beer costs $N8 which is 1 dollar. We chilled with some poor local kids and I bought them all beers and food, and got a glimpse at real Namib culture. I would later as well when I visit the township on the last day. We watched a rugby game at the bar, and had a huge bonfire on the beach with lots of SASers there.

The visit to the township was very interesting. Townships, I learned, are what most of the world's people live in. This particular township hosted half of the population of Walvis Bay, some 30,000 people. Most people there live on less than two dollars a day. In S. Africa one township many people visited hosts upwards of 2 million. We first visited a market in the township where we sampled the local milk tea, most poor people use a lot of dairy product, it tasted like gym socks but we drank it anyway. I decided to wander off in the market and try the local food. I bought some sort of meat from a guy BBQing and proceeded to dip it in a mulash of onions and peppers as the locals around me were. It tasted good. It is usually a bad sign when you buy questionable meat from a poor man and the rest of the market points at you giggling and laughing. I got nervous that I may be eating cat or worse, and went to ask my guide if I was going to be sick from eating it. He ate a piece and said it was alright. Delish!


Next we visited a school and an aids clinic. The school children were so stoked to see us. It was really awesome we couldn't get them to stop singing us songs. They sung the Namibian national anthem with pride and we donated some money to the school and community center. Visiting these kinds of places is very enlightening and some people got very emotional. The people are all very friendly and giving, even though they have little and we arrived in an air conditioned tour bus. The aids clinic was interesting and informative but saddening as well.

We drove through the most poor parts of the township and learned some native languages where you click your tongue to make words. We went to a market and saw some dancing and ate fried worms, along with other township delicacies. A bought a beer at the store and shared it with a local. We ended the tour at the home of our guide who had grown up there and has family there. We met his family and then left the township to go back to the "real world".

Thursday, September 25, 2008

Brazil


Day 1: We arrive in Brazil just in time. I think I was starting to get a case of cabin fever. Oh well we're finally here and a me and a big crew of guys are itching to find some locals, some surf, and a couple of cold Brazilian beers. After a logistical pre-port meeting with a representative from the U.S. embassy in Salvador we are free to leave the boat. I grab some boardshorts, my handy voice recorder, a camera, and my best attempt at Portugese.

Once outside the ship we can see that Salvador is a city of hustle and bustle. Shirtless men on horses trot down the street, the Salvador police are helping us jaywalk (which is one of the scariest things you can do in Salvador), and taxi drivers proceed to attack us from all angles knowing that we are fresh from America with full wallets. We find one that speaks decent English and begin to pack nine thirsty college students into his bus.

The beach we are heading to just north of town is called Stella Maris, and the taxi ride offers us a view of downtown. Salvador is a big city. Dirt-poor favelas line the cliffs looking over freeways into a modern downtown city-scape. The freeways are tagged with a mix of unique cartoon graffiti-art and portugese billboards displaying the latest in high-tech gadgetry and high-brow fashion. Shoeless men ride on the back bumpers of garbage trucks doing 60. The shopping mall is surrounded by dazzling architecture and skyscrapers and sewers line the main road. The disparity here is shockingly apparent. Evil Knieval couldn't clear the gap here between the rich and the poor.

The taxi driver is cool and teaches us how to order beer in his country and plays us some of the local music. We finally start to see sand and arrive at the beach and see that it is packed with Brazilians. Apparently this is a very popular beach for Brazilians to travel to and today happens to be the day of independencion. We luckily find a large table at the on-beach resteraunt, and proceed to order everything on the menu. After more than a week of ship food we were all ready for some fine cuisine. Our host Jonathan spoke English and was a native of Uruguay working in Brazil because the work back home paid less. He took care of us and soon we were chowing on fresh oysters, lobster, calamari, shrimps, and local fish while washing it all down with a local brew called Skol.

With a full belly and a good buzz going, Darren, a fellow traveller and native of Washington, and I went to try to find some surfboards. The surf scene here is just like Southern California, the surfers wear rip-curl and o'neil and ride a plethora of short and long boards. Beautiful Brazilian girls tan on the beach while young kids set up coconuts as goal-posts and play soccer. There are a few older guys that rock the speedo like its nobody's business, but aside from that this place is modern surf culture.

"Chris Man we have to play soccer with those kids." says Darren.

"Dude I'd get worked I just ate two pounds of fish"

"No man, I'm going for it"

Before I can stop him Darren runs up and hops into the game, and soon enough the fifteen-year olds convince me to get in on it too. The kids were really cool and were good soccer players. I felt like an old man playing against them. But eventually my soccer skills came back and we ended up playing for a good hour with them, it was a blast. The language barrier seems not to apply to sports. We said goodbye to our new friends, and went back to join the group. By this time another load of Semester at Sea kids had shown up and we had ourselves a good old fashioned Brazilian carnival.

After some coconuts and a few more beers I felt confident enough to wander the beach alone and did so. I heard it from a distance, at first some people singing, then a guitar playing. I ran towards the gathering, people singing songs I know, but wait, in a different language. I quickly ask the group if I can join, I don't know if they understood but I sit down and one of guys in the group pours me a beer. Brazilians are friendly people. After a couple renditions of Beatles and Chili Peppers songs in Portugese by a dude around my age I make a gesture that I want to play. I play jammin' by Bob and everyone sings along. If there is one thing that I've learned so far in my travels it is that Bob Marley is universal music. A person may not know English but they will know the words to some Bob songs. The guitar is passed around, everyone is jamming having a good time as the sun sets. Then a young light skinned Brazilian girl with crystal blue eyes comes up and wants to jam. I start recording with my handy voice recorder and she begins to sing. She has a beatiful voice and sings some really excellent songs that I had never heard. One thing I noticed about the jam session was that every person there knew the words and was helping to sing the songs (I tried but stopped when I realized Portugese is harder than I thought). With everyone singing and having a good time the music came together and sounded great. I had a permanent smile on my face. Eventually I had to say goodbye to my musical friends, and head back to the group.

Dominic, a good surfer from Cocoa Beach, and Colin, from Santa Barbara, managed to get a hold of some boards from our host Jonathan and were out surfing a mushy reef break left that looked pretty fun. Our taxi driver needed to return his bus so once they got out of the water we took off. We head back to the boat to prepare for our individually planned trips for the night.

I signed up for a trip through Semester at Sea called the Welcome Reception. It was supposed to be a dance party at a local Brazilian University where we would be able to interact with some students our age. I hop on the bus and see that some good friends are on the trip along with me. An enthusiastic friend we nicknamed Hershey is there as well as a couple of girls from Colorado. The bus takes us to a big tent set up off of the freeway, kind of looked like cirque de la sole or whatever and it turns out to be just like that except Brazilian style. We walk up and are immediately greeted by women with bright dresses adorning us with necklaces and wristbands. We walk in and there is young men playing capoeira on stage. Capoeira is a really cool style of Brazilian martial arts that looks like an acrobatic dance. Those familiar with the video game Tekken will recognize it as Eddie Gordo's fighting style. It originated as a way for African slaves brought to Brazil to practice fighting while their masters thought it was just a dance and not self defense. It is really cool to watch. They taught us some simple capoeira moves, and then the dance party started. Brazilians know how to drink. Hosts with pints wandered around constantly refilling everyones drinks until 100 college students were plastered.

I ended the night back at the ship listening to the music I had recorded earlier with some friends while I waited to leave for a trip to the Amazon which left at 2 am. I lost track of time and almost missed my bus but luckily I barely made it. The next 12 hours were spent travelling to Northern Brazil for a 3 day float down the Amazon river. I slept mostly.

Day 2-5: The Amazon river is a truly beautiful place. The amount of wildlife and water that lives there is truly mindblowing. Our guides were down-to-earth locals that were very knowledgable about survival in the Amazon. We stayed on a two-story riverboat and slept on hammocks. We caught caymen (small gator), piranhas, hiked the rainforest, visited a native village and played soccer with the locals.

I finished off the trip with a traditional Brazilian BBQ. Every kind of meat you can imagine all you can eat. Truly Delish.

If you made it this far I'm sure your tired of reading so I will let the pictures speak for themselves.






Tuesday, September 16, 2008

Jammin Bahamas

Hello All. This is Chris coming to you with much love from the middle of the Atlantic. My journey is still in the beginning stages and so far so good. I hopped onto the boat in Nassau, New Providence in the Bahamas shortly after this jam session to the left. The people in Nassau were great to jam with. Life onboard the MV Explorer is pretty awsome. First off the girl to guy ratio is 74% to 26% which is VERY NICE!!! Lots of cool people from all over the U.S. and the World. Lots of musicians as well. We just got out of Salvador, Brazil and now we are travelling across the Atlantic to Namibia. Hope everyone is well, I'll post more soon. Peace

Chris

Saturday, September 6, 2008


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